Climbing Mount Rainier Guide
The first real mountain I ever climbed was Mt Rainier in Washington State.
Years ago, when we were 17 my buddy called me up out of the blue and said: “hey we’re climbing Rainier in July you want to join?”.
No experience. No real training.
Of course, I said “hell yeah!”
*Disclaimer: at the time I was on the track and field team, playing select soccer, and an avid outdoorsman. The experience I lacked was made up for with athleticism.
However, if you have a few basic tools and some knowledge you too can climb Mount Rainier.
The Obstacle
Mount Rainier or “Tahoma” in the native tongue is a 14,410-foot active stratovolcano.
There are a couple of different routes to the top, with the most popular one beginning at Paradise and going up the Disappointment Cleaver.
That’s the route we took and that’s what we’re gonna talk about today.
Paradise Ranger station sits at about 5,400 feet. The next stop on the trail is Camp Muir which is at 10,000 feet. Many people stay the night here or rest for a while.
We left the parking lot at around 6 pm on July 1st. It took us about 5 hours to get to Camp Muir at around 11 pm. We stayed in the little bunkers here all Monday and slept until midnight.
Once we left Muir it was another 5 hours to the summit which we reached around 5 am in the morning. Let me tell you, Sunrise at 14,000 feet is spectacular.
Heading back down took about 3 hours. Several people around us brought skis or snowboards for the way down, but we ended up “glissading” most of the way down.
We’ll talk a bit more about techniques in a bit.
The trail is long, steep and arduous.
Its gonna be cold cold cold.
You will cross Ingraham glacier, traverse Disappointment Cleaver, and scramble hazardous rocks.
But it will all be worth it at the top.
The Plan
9,000 feet of elevation gain. 8-9 miles. One step at a time.
Step 1. Get in shape.
One of the more obvious steps, if you can’t get to the top of the stairs without wheezing, climbing a 14,410-foot mountain is gonna be extremely difficult.
At the end of the day, this is really just a 9,000-foot hike.
However, the average success of the mountain is around 50%, nothing about this will be easy.
Go on practice hikes. Get used to hiking in the snow. Start going on long runs.
You should be able to easily run 6 miles and have the ability to do 300 body squats after.
Your average gear weight will be 40-60 lbs on your back. Practice hikes with extra weight too.
As stated earlier, I had very little training prior to this climb. But being in shape will increase your odds of success exponentially. You know your body and fitness level.
Mountaineering is dangerous. If you can go with someone who has been before, definitely try and do it with them. If not check out some of the guided tours during the summer months, those can be a great option too.
Mountain gear and techniques
Step 2. Get your gear.
I’m not gonna go too technical here because if you do everything right it doesn’t need to be. Being in shape and being prepared is going to be your biggest factors that will determine success.
Absolutely make sure the weather is going to be good. Check with the rangers before you go ALWAYS.
Weather and out of shape are the two biggest factors in unsuccessful climbs.
To an extent, you can control both. Get in fantastic shape. Don’t climb if the weather is bad. Keep it simple and be smart about it.
With that in mind the basic essential gear list:
- Ice ax
- Rope to tie up to your group
- Snow boots
- Crampons
- Tent (in case the Muir bunkers are full)
- Food for 3 days
- Stove to melt snow for water
- Warm layers, always bring one extra more than you think you’ll need
- Hiking poles
- Helmet (for falling rocks)
If you don’t have certain items (I know I didn’t) then stop at Whittaker Mountaineering on the way there. It’s a local guide shop where you can rent just about everything on the above list and more for very reasonable.
Climbing Tips
Step 3. Study up on how to climb safely.
Mountaineering is hard, but so extremely freeing and enjoyable.
If you haven’t experienced the beauty and harshness of high alpines I would highly recommend it.
The beauty of nature is also that which is most deadly.
Every year people just like you and I climb Rainier, Hood, Denali, Shasta, Baker, Adams. And sometimes a few don’t come back.
When in doubt, don’t go up. Don’t be a hero and be safe out there!
One of the most important lessons you can learn is how to self-arrest.
Self-arrest is how you use your ice ax to stop yourself from slipping and falling down the ice chutes.
Falling down a cliff or harsh weather are the two main dangers of the mountain.
As such t’s absolutely essential to be able to keep yourself from falling and keep an eye on the weather.
Getting down the mountain
The fastest way to get down the mountain is by glissading.
Glissading is basically sliding down the snow chutes on your butt.
Just be careful. Always be looking ahead of you and be aware of your speed. Use your ice ax to slow you down and control where you’re going.
Notice how in the video he shows how to self-arrest as well!
Another tip- Don’t glissade with crampons on! They’ll catch on the ice and trip you up bad on the way down.
Climbing Mount Rainier Cost
Of note: Check the NPS website for discounts. There are seniors and military reduced fees (Military is free).
Climbing Fees.
Climbing past 10,000 feet requires a climbing permit. If you’re just going to Camp Muir or Camp Schurman you don’t need a permit but anything past that you do.
Don’t skip the passes, you don’t want to get stopped on the way up or down and get cited by a ranger!
Get your car into the park, grab a climbing pass and you’ll be good to go.
Getting there.
The Disappointment Cleaver route begins at the Paradise Ranger Station.
Heading south on I-5 from Seattle or Tacoma, take highway WA-7 S.
WA-7 becomes National Park Highway 706, follow all the way to Paradise.
Make sure to check the current road conditions and weather at the National Park Service site before you go.
Conclusion
Climbing Mount Rainier is a challenge but with some knowledge and preparation, you too can summit this glorious mountain.
In the end, the mental preparation is key. It will be tough, it will be excruciating at times.
But for the rest of your life, you’ll be able to gaze up at the mountain and say to yourself “I’ve conquered that”.
Just make sure to stay safe and as always, have a blast!
For further reading, the NPS put together a great guide as well, check it out as well.
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